Finca Factors

         The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain. It’s a memorable little phrase used, I believe, in the teaching of enunciation but, as it’s been lodged in my brain since childhood, I’ve always imagined it to be true of Spanish weather systems. This latest sojourn in Spain may have cured me of that misconception.

         After a few days in Valencia, we are spending some time with our friend who lives, off grid, on a finca halfway up the coast towards Barcelona. It’s situated a kilometre or two from the coast, in foothills, so it gets a cooling breeze in summer. But the night we arrived, all our phones lit up with alarms warning of imminent torrential rain. It was noon the next day before the downpour – dramatically accompanied by thunder and lightning – ceased as abruptly as it had started.

          Our first morning was spent bailing out a flooded room on the ground floor, carrying buckets across the yard to lower-lying ground. The biblical downpour made a mockery of waterproof clothing, so my swimming trunks, which I almost didn’t bother to pack, came in handy after all.

          The experience, however brief, of living on farmed land serves as a reminder that we are all at the mercy of the elements and that the food we consume does not originate in the supermarket. In this corner of the world, the combination of soil and climate, when in balance, is productive of olives, carobs and almonds.

          This finca and several others around it are no longer owned and operated by native farming families: they have been bought by foreigners whose living is not dependent on selling produce but whose interest in continuing some of the traditions is passionate, nevertheless. This seems to apply particularly to the production of olive oil. Specifically, to attaining the highest quality, organic, virgin, first-pressing, small batch variety that can’t be sold (unless certification is obtained) but can be consumed by themselves and appreciative friends, especially those who have reached aficionado level. We are here just as the olives are due to be harvested and have become involved in the process.

          Harvesting times are fraught with concern. The weather plays a crucial role in determining the outcome, so timing is critical. The process is also communal – neighbours help each other with the work – so we have observed the discussions and rising levels of anxiety among our friends here.

          In order to get their desired result, the olives must be picked and pressed without delay. Furthermore, the pressing has to be done at a certified organic mill, preferably before the equipment has been tainted by someone else’s batch, which means a timeslot must be booked in advance, which in turn puts pressure on ensuring an efficient (some would say frantic) harvesting session. In the days running up to this, we had three people frequently consulting several different weather forecasting apps, before agreement was finally reached on a schedule that could work – so long as the weather window held open.

          I lent a hand, stripping the olives from the branches with a stubby rake, but any notion I harboured of a romantic, bucolic peasant experience – cheerfully working together in the autumn sunshine, occasionally slaking one’s thirst with sangria and fuelling one’s belly with tasty tapas – was immediately quashed by the no-nonsense urgency of gathering and transporting the fruits of our labours. Yes, there was a good lunch at the end but, by then, arguments were simmering over whether the process might have been better planned and expedited.

          All that will be forgotten, I hope, when the golden oil finally flows at the dinner tables of friends and neighbours and the taste buds yield their verdict. Eventually, talk will turn to whether the weather will be kind to the crops next year. Another useful phrase for the perfection of enunciation is ‘the anticipation of undue precipitation causes much consternation in an Iberian nation’.

Euro Shame

          Here we are again, travelling by train in Europe and still feeling foolish about Brexit. We started with the Eurostar service from London to Paris, which seems unnecessarily expensive, but I guess this might be just another consequence of ‘regaining our sovereignty’: someone has to pay for all the customs and border personnel that weren’t there in the good old days.

          Earlier this year, we rode trains to Greece with American friends, whose strategy for coping with the embarrassment of sharing nationality with Donald Trump comprised keeping their voices down and hoping to be taken for Canadian. We Brits have no similar ploy available to us: one look at our clothes and general demeanour is enough for the official at a Spanish platform barrier to address us in English, knowing not to waste their time otherwise. And from there, it’s a small step to imagining them silently deriding our rude and disrespectful exit from the union that could have made a serious difference to the dynamics of global power-play, had we been onside. That said, they might just be a supporter of one of the far-right parties ambitious for their own exit from the EU.

          But this is about my shame, not theirs. In Paris, we transferred to a TGV train bound for Barcelona and, for six hours or so, sat in a luxurious bubble of anonymity in comfortable, adjacent seats on the top deck, sipping wine as we watched the sun go down over the Camargue.

          Our stopover was for one night, so we had booked accommodation adjoining the station and walked seamlessly from the platform to the foyer of a space-age fantasy of an hotel. Our room, on the seventh floor, had a panoramic view and was fitted out with style, panache and careful regard to the needs and expectations of the contemporary urban traveller. (I imagine the same would have been said of many of the original railway hotels built at the end of the 19^th century.)

          Come the morning, we moved on to Valencia, where we spent a couple of days walking around the city – a scouting exercise that took in many of the ‘must-see’ sights, as well as the unremarkable bits in between. The Old City was where we stayed, quite near one of the two remaining one-thousand-year-old defensive gates and an Ecuadorian coffee shop, a reminder of Spain’s colonising past. Such features are commonplace in old Iberian cities, but Valencia has a couple of modern tricks up its sleeve.

          In the 1960s the flood-prone river Turia that ran through its centre was diverted elsewhere and its course converted into a public park that is supremely well located to provide a refuge for the apartment-bound population. In the 2000s the land at the mouth of the former river was devoted to the construction of a collection of striking contemporary buildings comprising the City of Arts and Sciences. The space age experience at Barca was a mere appetiser for this main course.

          Heading north next day, on a provincial train, we were back on planet Earth. A teenager across from us put his feet up on the seats and focussed his attention on his phone but the ticket lady, a small but fearsome-looking person came by and, without saying a word, casually swatted his knees. He caved without protest. Later, an older woman, a foreigner, had the temerity to put one of her feet up on a seat and, though she received a verbal warning, I did note that the ticket lady had serious backup if: she was accompanied by a burly young man in uniform equipped with an enormously long truncheon.

          I heard the BBC news this morning and there is much talk of Britain’s current leadership pining to re-join the EU. I can imagine a collective response of “you must be joking”, yet still, I hope.