When I began
to take a serious interest in hill-walking, back in the 1980s, I kitted myself
out with specialist clothing made from polyester fabric which is effective at
retaining body heat while still allowing perspiration to escape. I soon
discovered it has a couple of drawbacks: it is wickedly electro-static and, after
only a few hours, reeks of armpits. Despite this being common knowledge since
the 1960’s (the era of nylon, drip-dry shirts) I, and many others, convinced ourselves
that we needed to spend small fortunes on garish garments which could be easily
spotted (and probably smelt) by mountain-rescue teams. Lately many of us have
returned to Nature’s own hi-tech fabric: worn by millions of sheep in New
Zealand, it is called Merino wool and has re-generated the outdoor-clothing business.
Nowadays unwanted polyester pullovers (ironically known as ‘fleeces’) can be
bought for the price of a pint of beer at many High Street clothing shops.
But the High Street has long been full of things I
neither want nor need, as was reconfirmed recently when I went in search of
some Merino socks. The specialist outdoor-pursuits shops had plenty of the
thick, chunky hiking variety but I was looking for an apparently rare type –
the svelte city-sock – and without success. Manchester city centre has no
shortage of men’s clothing shops but most of them are really in the business of
selling fashion-branded garments and are unconcerned with the niceties of
fabric types. Humble socks are relegated to racks at the back of the shop and,
being low-ticket items, are not well understood by staff.
My search would
have been better conducted on the internet but this had now turned into an
ad-hoc research project during which I began to question the value of the big, familiar
shops which aim to reassure customers by offering consistency but, in the
process, are responsible for perpetuating uniform patterns of behaviour. I
hankered after different shops.
Someone told me that in Amsterdam, for example, coffee-shop chains are banned
from the city centre for fear that the place would lose one of its main
attractions – the charming variety of individual, owner-managed cafes which lend
character to the place. This may have been achieved by timely civic legislation
in Amsterdam but it is too late for such controls to be applied to Britain’s
High Streets where landlords have tied their tenants into long contracts with
periodic, upwards-only rent reviews.
Change may
be on the horizon: I notice that the first charity shop has opened on one of
the main shopping streets in Manchester and, although the word “blight” may spring
to mind, along with visions of poor, semi-derelict High Streets elsewhere, it may
well be that the charity shop signals a point in a cycle of regeneration. The
last few decades have been marked by retail-chain expansion which has driven
rents upwards with the consequence that more modestly capitalised independent
businesses have lost their toe-hold. The lending and borrowing which has
nourished this process has, at last, become unsustainable and the inevitable consequence
is collapse. The corporate retail chains, whose spread has spoiled the
individuality of Britain’s High Streets, have taken to sheltering in malls
where their business model can be sustained, their high costs recouped from the
heavy footfall of shoppers who prefer to put comfort and convenience before risk
and adventure.
Charity shops
may be the first to seize the opportunity but, as landlords are obliged by
market forces to reduce rents, smaller businesses will be able, once more, to
populate the High Streets where they will do what they do best – attract
curious, interested customers by offering quirky, individual experiences. And
when these customers come they will bring with them the life that makes High
Streets buzz again.
Charity shops don't pay business rates which is why they are taking over all our shopping streets in order to generate huge profits in order to pay huge salaries to their chief executives while small businesses are forced out of business because they can't pay the excessive costs that charity shops don't have to pay.
ReplyDeleteHaving just spent an enjoyable few minutes fulfilling a mini B(belated) NYR by reading your diaries (prompted by meeting Carin this week),I have to mention Totnes, Devon as offering a wonderful mix of quirky, individual experiences, both of the retail kind and out on the street.It is also Britain's first Transition Town....
ReplyDeleteI would love to believe that charity shops on the High Street will bring back the small, individual shops. Sadly, in my experience, and certainly if my local area is anything to go by, it just means that once the first one appears, every other charity will follow. Also we mustn't forget that charity shops are run by volunteers so is very bad news for the job market.
ReplyDeleteCharity shops have a role to play in the high street as a vehiclle to recycle unwanted items but they will never be wealth or job generators. I don't believe small retail clothing businesses will ever regain a foothold in large UK cities. How can they compete with the multiple chains -House of Fraser, Debenhams, etc., and global boutique brands - Armani, Westwood, Hilfiger, etc., In Manchester the only exceptions I can think of is J Whipple on Princess Street, albeit a little old fashioned.
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